Golden
Thyme
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Lacey's Blog




Altering Your Jacket After You're Finished!

  We all have such different body types and pattern companies try to address as many
types as they can.  Golden Thyme Design patterns are very basic in shape and are designed
 to help quilters to alter their garments with minimal knowledge of sewing.  The patterns use a
 ¼" seam allowances, quilting terms with quilting tools and are slightly modified rectangles for straight seam piecing.     

  I usually make a "Sloper" (a 1 layer muslin model) of the pattern the
first time I use it but time doesn't always allow for that.

Below are answers to the 3 most popular fitting questions I get.  You are always
welcome to email me with questions and I love to see pictures of your designs.  check the
Gallery page for student photos! 


Shoulder Pads
Shoulder pads can do an amazing job of broadening the shoulders!  Noted
 Bernina Fashion designer Priscilla Kibbee says they are a "must have" and for quite a
 few of us they are!  They can be easily added after the jacket is finished.   I don't
 require them in the garment patterns but to add them is quite simple.


Bust Too Small or Large
 Remember, the jacket is just a few basic rectangles with a bit of shaping.  Fabric can
 always be added to the lapel edge, even after you have sewn the opening in the lining
 closed.   It does involve a bit of ripping but better to rip then put aside your work. 

TOO SMALL:
If you bagged your lining, turn the jacket wrong side out again and remove the
 stitches from ½ down the lapel edge, around the lapel point and down the front edge.
Continue ripping the stitches about 6" across the bottom hem edge. 

Now add a strip of fabric, the needed inch or so ( + seam allowance) to
 the front edge, a muslin strip to the muslin and add a strip of the lining fabric to the
 lining edge.  Quilting, appliqués or embroidery stitches can help disguise the line. 

Trim the edges with the rotary cutter.  Re-stitched the lapel edge and turn right side
out again.  Finish as usual.

TOO LARGE:
If there is too much fabric in the front, turn wrong side out and remove the excess
 inch.  Trim the fabric and finish as usual.


Sleeve Is Too Deep or Not Deep Enough
  Remember the patterns use a kimono/dolman sleeve and you can adjust the depth.
The sleeves are 14" deep, which works well with most body types but you have the
 option of altering that.  To shorten, mark  sleeve at 13" x 1" and the sleeve panel
width would be 26"  instead of 28"W.  To lengthen, mark the sleeve at  15" x 1" and the
 sleeve panel would be 30"W.